Thursday, January 31, 2008

Octopode Pandemonium! Cute Thing of the Week



My wool box is getting way too full. Too many scraps left over from finished projects, which is why PepperKitty's Octopode Pandemonium gets the honour of being the first Cute Thing of the Week. Whether alone or in a group these little guys are adorable. They take less than one skein of wool, and would probably look good even if you used several different colours to make them. I haven't put any together yet, but I'm definately keeping them in mind for a future project.

Want the Pattern?
PepperKitty has put together a turtorial that's available here.

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Futurama's Nibbler with Pattern





This is the first time I've actually tried to write out the pattern for something I've made. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions, or if I haven't explained something well enough. Happy Crochetting!

Nibbler Pattern

Materials
I’m going to list the exact wools I used because I know some people will want that, but as long as you have a bright shade of yellow and red, Nibbler should look accurate. Just be sure to use worsted weight yarn for all parts.

*Note: the red wool is only used for the cape, which is a mix of knitting and crocheting. If you’d prefer, you could just buy red fabric and sew a cape. (Be warned, the cape takes a long time to knit!)

1 ball (or less) Bernat Satin “Sunrise” yellow
1 ball Bernat Satin “Crimson” red
1 ball Bernat Super Value Black
1 ball Bernat Super Value White (you don’t need much white, if you have some scrap worsted weight white lying around it will probably be enough.)
1 ball Bernat Super Value Natural

white felt (I like the kind that’s sticky on the backside!)
black felt or wiggly eyes with black centers that are 1/4 inch
black pipe cleaner, 2 pieces approximately 8 inches long
quilt batting (or whatever you like to use for stuffing.)

size “F” crochet hook
three US 5 double pointed needles and/or two US 5 regular knitting needles (for cape only, see cape instructions below for an explanation of why you may want the double pointed needles.)

**Note: It doesn’t really matter what order you make the pieces in, but you will need to have Nibbler’s tummy patch done before his body, and his nose and muzzle done before you finish the head.

Felt Eyes and Fangs

cut out two white circles that are approx. 1 1/8 inches in diameter. Cut out black circles that are 1/4 inch in diameter, or use 1/4 inch black circles from the center of a wiggly eye. Attach black circles to white. See pictures for placement.

Cut out two triangles that are 1/2 inch across their base, and 3/4 of an inch from base to center point. (If using felt that is sticky on the back fold the felt over on itself so it is stuck together and then cut out fangs, this makes them a bit more sturdy.)

Use any common fabric glue, or glue gun to attach eyes and fang to the head when ready.

Eye Stalk and Head
with black
6 sc in magic ring, but before sl st into first stitch to join, tie on white and make sl st with white.
(using white)
RND 1: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
RND 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (18 stitches)
For next 3 RNDS sc in each st around (18 stitches)
RND 6: *sc in first st, dec ,* repeat around (12 stitches)
RND 7: dec in each st. (6 stitches)
stuff eyeball firmly now.

For next 11 RNDs sc in each st around (6 stitches)

Cut two pieces of pipe cleaner that are the same size as the black part of Nibbler’s eye stalk. Twist the two pieces together to make them strong, then insert them in the eye stalk (instead of stuffing. The pipe cleaners make the eyestalk more poseable!)

RND 18: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
RND 19: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (18 stitches)
RND 20: *sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (24 stitches)
RND 21: *sc in first 3 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (30 stitches)
RND 22: *sc in first 4 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (36 stitches)
RND 23: *sc in first 5 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (42 stitches)
RND 24: *sc in first 6 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (48 stitches)
RND 25: *sc in first 7 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (54 stitches)
RND 26: *sc in first 8 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (60 stitches)
RND 27: *sc in first 9 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (66 stitches)
RND 28: *sc in first 10 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (72 stitches)
for next 5 RNDs sc in each st around, (72 stitches)

(*note: Now we’re going to start decreasing. At some point during the decreasing, while you can still fit your hand inside the head, you’ll want to attach the nose & muzzle piece. Use the long tails from this piece to attach it. I like to backstitch through the holes in the last rows of sc on the piece to attach. When you have only about 1-2 inches of the muzzle left to attach, stuff it firmly before sealing it shut. Only the muzzle part is stuffed, the nose part just lies flat against the head.)

RND 29: *sc in first 10 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (66 stitches)
RND 30: *sc in first 9 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (60 stitches)
RND 31: *sc in first 8 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (54 stitches)
RND 32: *sc in first 7 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (48 stitches)
RND 33: *sc in first 6 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (42 stitches)
RND 34: *sc in first 5 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (36 stitches)
RND 35: *sc in first 4 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (30 stitches)
RND 36: *sc in first 3 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (24 stitches)
RND 37: *sc in first 2 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (18 stitches)
sl st into next st, finish off, leave long tail for sewing.

Nose
with black, 6 sc into a magic ring, sl st into first st, fasten off. Leave 5 inch tail for sewing, also leave tail that hangs down from center of magic ring.

with “natural”:
6 sc in a magic ring,
RND 1: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
RND 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (18 stitches)
sl st into next st. Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Using the tail that hangs down from the center of the black nose, thread it through the center of this piece. Thread other black thread though this piece (somewhere that it can’t be seen from the good side) and secure the black nose by tying a knot on the wrong side. You may have use the wool to stitch it in a couple of places to make it sit securely where you want it.

Muzzle (we’re making a flat oval shape here!)
with “natural wool”

chain 19, sc in second ch from hook and work 17 sc, then 2 sc in last ch space. Then sc in the bottom of 17 ch spaces, put 2 sc in the last space. Now keep going around in this oval shape for two more RNDs, adding 2-4 sc at the ends so that they look rounded. Fasten off. Keep long tail for sewing.

Using black wool backstitch the mouth as shown in the picture. Fasten off black thread on wrong side.

Whipstitch the nose piece to the center of the oval, (see pictures) by stitching through 2 or 3 sc spaces.

Tummy

with “natural”

6 sc in magic ring
RND 1: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
RND 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (18 stitches)
RND 3: *sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (24 stitches)
RND 4: *sc in first 3 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (30 stitches)
RND 5: *sc in first 4 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (36 stitches)
RND 6: *sc in first 5 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (42 stitches)
RND 7: *sc in first 6 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (48 stitches)
RND 8: *sc in first 7 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (54 stitches)
RND 9: *sc in first 8 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (60 stitches)
sl st into next st, finish off, Leave long tail for sewing.

Make a french knot or regular knot with black wool, secured to center of this piece for the belly button.

Body
with black
6 sc in magic ring
RND 1: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
RND 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (18 stitches)
RND 3: *sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (24 stitches)
RND 4: *sc in first 3 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (30 stitches)
RND 5: *sc in first 4 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (36 stitches)
RND 6: *sc in first 5 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (42 stitches)
for next 4 RNDs sc in each st around (42 stitches)
RND 11: *sc in first 6 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (48 stitches)
RND 12: *sc in first 7 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (54 stitches)
RND 13: *sc in first 8 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (60 stitches)
RND 14: *sc in first 9 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (66 stitches)
RND 15: *sc in first 10 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (72 stitches)
RND 16: *sc in first 11 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (78 stitches)
for next 6 RNDs sc in each st around (78 stitches)

note: Now we’re going to start decreasing. At some point during the decreasing, while you can still fit your hand inside the body, you’ll want to attach the Tummy piece. Use the long tails from this piece to attach it by backstitching through the holes in the last rows of sc on the Tummy.

RND 23: *sc in first 11 st, dec in next st, repeat around (72 stitches)
RND 24: *sc in first 10 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (66 stitches)
RND 25: *sc in first 9 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (60 stitches)
RND 26: *sc in first 8 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (54 stitches)
RND 27: *sc in first 7 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (48 stitches)
RND 28: *sc in first 6 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (42 stitches)
RND 29: in back loop only *sc in first 5 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (36 stitches)
RND 30: *sc in first 4 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (30 stitches)
RND 31: *sc in first 3 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (24 stitches)
RND 32: *sc in first 2 st, dec in next st,* repeat around (18 stitches)
start stuffing the body firmly
RND 33: *sc in first st, dec in next st,* repeat around (12 stitches)
RND 34 dec in each st (6 stitches)
sl st into next st, fasten off. Add more stuffing if necessary, then weave yarn through last 6 stitches, pull closed, fasten off, weaving in ends, or hiding them inside.


Arms (make 2)
with black
6 sc in magic ring
RND 1: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
RND 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (18 stitches)
for 23 RNDs sc in each st around (18 stitches)
RND 26: 6 hdc, sl st into next st, fasten off, leave long tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)
with black
6 sc in magic ring, leave a long tail hanging down on the outside from the center of the
magic ring, when you finish the leg, use this string to whipstitch the leg to the yellow boot.
RND 1: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
for 12 RNDs sc in each st around. (12 stitches
sl stitch into next st, fasten off, leave long tail for sewing.

Boots (make 2)
with yellow
6 sc in a magic ring,
RND 1: work 2 sc in each st around. (12 stitches)
RND 2: *sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st*, repeat around (16 stitches)
For next 10 RNDS sc in each sts around (16 stitches)
RND 13: *sc in first 2 sts, dec,* repeat around (12 stitches)
stuff firmly
RND 14: 6 dec around, (6 stitches)
add a bit more stuffing, if necessary, fasten off, weave tail through six remaining stitches and pull shut. Weave in the rest of the tail, or thread it through the stuffed part to hide.

Cape

First we crochet the collar.

with red, leave a long tail before you begin chaining, (about 12 inches or more)
Row 1: chain 13, then sc in second ch from hook, 12 sc in across chain, turn.
Row 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat to end of row, turn (18 stitches)
Row 3: *sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat to end of row, turn (24 stitches)
Row 4: *sc in first 3 st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat to end of row, turn (30 stitches)
finish off, leave a long thread, weave through wrong side until you can thread it through the corner of your original chain, making it the other thread you’ll use to tie the cape around Nibbler’s neck. I then used my crochet hook to turn both these dangling threads into chains, knotted them at the ends and trimmed off the extra wool.

Using your crochet hook and US size 5 knitting needles, cast on 12 stitches from the base/bottom of the chain on the cape collar.

(Because this piece is so curved I found it easier to spread the knitting stitches over two double pointed needles for the first few rows, so I was using 3 double pointed needles in total. Later when the piece was willing to lay flat, I switched to just working with 2 regular needles. Do what feels comfortable for you.)

with 12 stitches on needle:
*note: whenever I increased I knitted through the back loop (Tbl) but other methods such as ‘yarn over’ would probably work out fine too. In the pattern I’m just going to say inc, and use whatever method you like.

row 1: knit
row 2: purl
row 3: *knit first st, inc in next st* repeat across (18 stitches)
row 4: purl
row 5: *knit first 2 st, inc in next st* repeat across (24 stitches)
row 6: purl
row 7: *knit first 3 st, inc in next st* repeat across (30 stitches)
row 8: purl
row 9: *knit first 4 st, inc in next st* repeat across (36 stitches)
row 10: purl
row 11: *knit first 5 st, inc in next st* repeat across (42 stitches)
row 12: purl
row 13: *knit first 6 st, inc in next st* repeat across (48 stitches)
row 14: purl
row 15: *knit first 7 st, inc in next st* repeat across (54 stitches)
row 16: purl
row 17: *knit first 8 st, inc in next st* repeat across (54 stitches)
row 18: purl
row 19: *knit first 9 st, inc in next st* repeat across (60 stitches)
row 20: purl
row 21: *knit first 10 st, inc in next st* repeat across (66 stitches)
row 22: purl
row 23: *knit first 11 st, inc in next st* repeat across (72 stitches)
row 24: purl
row 25: *knit first 12 st, inc in next st* repeat across (78 stitches)
row 26: purl
row 27: *knit first 13 st, inc in next st* repeat across (84 stitches)
row 28: purl
row 29: knit
repeat rows 28-29 until cape measures 8 inches from base of collar to bottom, then cast off.

Assembly

stuff head firmly and whip stitch it to body. The head will wobble around a bit, but once the cape is tied on that will help it sit more securely. Stuff arms only halfway, and attach them to body with the 6 hdc stitches on top. Stuff legs halfway and attach to body.

Glue on eyes and fangs. Tie on cape.

Enjoy your Nibbler and make sure he doesn't eat too much ham!

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Amigurumi Invisible Decrease



This is the Gumball Kitten I made using the pattern posted by Quaking Aspen. Not only do I like this super quick kitten pattern, this is also where I first came across the invisible decrease stitch which Quaking Aspen has created a tutorial for here.

So far this is the best method I've found for making decrease stitches in amigurumi. I still get holes sometimes, but not as gaping as they are when I use a standard decrease method.

Hello!



Welcome to Cthulhu Crochet and Cousins! I'll be using this blog to showcase the things I'm making and also to show off other cool crochet projects I've found on the web. Be on the lookout for the Cute Thing of the Week, and feel free to mail me your suggestions. I just started crocheting last year and I've found lots of helpful tips online, so from time to time I'll also highlight various techniques that I've picked up.

Whenever I see something I like, I always want to start crafting it immediately. With that in mind, I'm going to try to only post items that have a pattern available. Ideally most of these patterns will be free, cause that's the way I like them! But even when they're not, I'll try to post links to where you can buy them, or where I found them.

Coming soon...the Futurama Nibbler pattern!